ONUL Coffee

ONUL Coffee is a Korean-inspired room on Sunset in Echo Park that started as a pop-up, and it treats tea and coffee the way a good bar treats spirits. Drinks arrive built like cocktails, made in front of you behind the bar, with the kind of technique that usually turns up on a drinks list with alcohol on it. The Bloody Matcha Fizz is the one to know. There is also a build that runs peach-papaya tea into espresso with yuzu and milk-clarified peaches, which sounds like a dare and is not. That approach brings a level of technique this part of the city rarely sees behind a coffee counter, and it means the menu moves. What is on today may not be on next month. It runs Wednesday through Sunday, mornings into the early afternoon, and it closes at the start of the week. We would go with an open mind and let the bar decide.